German Inspired Potato Salad

It is new potato time of year here. Those of you to the south and west of us here in Nova Scotia may be thinking, ‘what, it’s been new potato time for a while now Leah, wake up.’ Really though, they are just getting plentiful here.

I truly believe that there is not much finer than a new potato smothered in a healthy amount of butter and salt and pepper. There are occasions, however, when something a little bit more composed is called for. There are also occasions when getting half of supper done ahead of time is a nice treat as well.

I thought, for the odd day when it is actually warm enough that you don’t want to cook, that this makes a nice change to the mayonnaise doused potato salad that is a summer staple and which I love. Sadly, my behind and hips love it too much. So, to lighten things up we had this the other day.

Sometimes, I might be inclined to add some bacon, nicely crisped, to this. There were two reasons I didn’t on this occasion. The first, that there was already beef, bangers and  chicken going on the barbecue and the bacon just seemed excessive. For the second, you should reread the previous paragraph and, as with the first reason, the bacon just seemed excessive.

People may say that this should be served warm, and they would be correct. It is very nice warm. If you would rather go to the beach until supper time, I think it is perfectly acceptable to make it ahead of time and, if you really want to have it warm, put it in a heatproof bowl on the warming rack of your barbecue while everything else cooks. It is, cold or hot, a very fine potato salad.

German Inspired Potato Salad (Warm or Cold)

2 pounds small new potatoes halved

Vinaigrette

1/4 red onion finely chopped (about 1/2 cup)

1 tablespoon mustard

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

1/4 cup olive oil

1/2 cup chicken stock

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon celery seed

1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves

2 tablespoons green onion finely sliced

1/2 cup chopped parsley (a handful)

In a medium pot, cover potatoes with water and bring to a boil, reduce heat to allow a gentle boil and cook until just tender. It is important not to overcook them. It will take about ten minutes, once they are boiling

Meanwhile, mix all the ingredients for the vinaigrette together.

When the potatoes are cooked, drain them well and transfer them to a baking tray.

Heat the vinaigrette in a small pot just until it boils. Remove from heat and gently pour over the potatoes. After a few minutes, gently turn the potatoes, making sure the vinaigrette coats them completely.

Cool, or don’t, and serve.

An Unrecipe

I made something the other day. I have been debating whether to post it or not. It isn't nice. It was pretty but not nice. It was delicious but not nice. Even as I write these words, I wonder whether I should do it or not. I have been lucky enough to be spending the last few months in a seasonless oasis. But, I have decided, if things like this make their way into my market basket, there is little i can do but share it. Throwing caution to the wind, I am going to post this. Not in a nah-nah-nah-nah-nah-nah way. In a please enjoy and share and remember there is only five more weeks of winter.

***

You don't need a recipe to make hash. It is a pretty simple thing. It can be made plain or fancy. It can be eaten any time of day. It fits every meal.

You take some potatoes and onions and sauté them. You add some meat or fish or, in this case, beautiful green goodness and you sauté it a little more. Add some green onions near the end of the cooking time, almost no matter what kind of hash you are making.If you are want to get carried away, you can top it off with something. It would be the rare combination that a soft poached egg wouldn't suit. Poppy and Stephen think bacon is pretty nice too. Tilly even eats the green bits, but only because they are covered in egg yolk.

Anyway you put it together, it is simple and good and wholesome. It makes you feel good and cozy and that is important.

Roasted Potato Salad with Horseradish Dressing

A few weeks ago, I was visiting my friend and Big Daughter’s godmummy, Kirsty, in Toronto. We put our four girls to bed, with fewer tears and trips downstairs from the big daughters than expected. We breathed a big sigh of relief, poured some bubbly wine, probably too much bubbly wine, and went outside for a grown-up girl supper.

Kirsty had found a recipe, in The Globe and Mail I think, for potato salad. A recipe for potato salad? Is that really necessary? But, roasted potatoes and a horseradish dressing? Could there be any more perfect combination? How could you not want the recipe for this?

But, I didn’t write it down and I’m not organized enough to email and get it, or to follow it for that matter. So, I made one up, after being in the kitchen while Kirsty made her's, and this may just revolutionize your basic summer salads.

After I made this, I had to go to Toronto again to get more horseradish. I used the last and so the annual trip to Kozlik’s was necessary. Alright, I was doing other stuff too. But shopping for horseradish and mustard was very near the top of the to do list on Saturday. The only things above it were strong black coffee and peameal on a bun, to quell the effects of too much bubbly wine.

This would be really perfect with new potatoes and, if you are barbecuing, I would roast the potatoes on a grill tray on the barbecue. It is divine when it is warm but is also really delicious cold, so you could easily make it in advance.

I didn’t put as much horseradish in the dressing as I might have for two reasons. The first, I wasn’t making this for myself and I realize that not everyone thinks horseradish is as perfect a condiment as I do. And, the second, I didn’t have enough left.

Which brings us to the question, why didn’t I just go and get some more? Well, I have high horseradish standards and few jars will do. My favourite is not available here in Nova Scotia - yet, I'm told. I can’t abide any jar that has an ingredient list longer than: horseradish, vinegar, water, salt.

Fresh horseradish would have been good but, without spending two hours in the car with a teething nine month old and a stroppy four year old at supper time, there was none of that to be had either. Plus, it isn’t something that many people keep in their vegetable drawer, but they should.

I served the salad with some of Sheila's smoked salmon from our local and micro greens from the Friday market in Mahone Bay. It was a perfect summer supper. The salad would suit any grilled meat or fish. It would be great with burgers. It would make a nice little potluck dish as well.

Roasted Potato Salad with Horseradish Dressing  as inspired by Kirsty’s reproduction of a recipe from The Globe and Mail

2 pounds potatoes

1 tablespoon olive oil

3 tablespoons yogurt

3 tablespoons mayonnaise

1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

1 tablespoon + 1 teaspoon good, hot horseradish (you might want less or more depending on your taste and your horseradish)

Sea salt and fresh ground black pepper

1/4 red onion finely chopped

Handful of parsley and chives finely chopped

Preheat oven to 450º. Wash and cut the potatoes into bite size chunks. Toss then with the olive oil and some salt and pepper in a roasting pan. Put in the oven and roast for about twenty minutes for a convection oven, a little longer for traditional. They need to be completely cooked and getting golden and crisp. Remove from oven and cool just until they are warm. Transfer to a large mixing bowl.

Make the dressing by putting the yogurt, mayo, vinegar, horseradish and salt and pepper to season in a small bowl. whisk to combine. Pour over the roasted potatoes. Add the red onion, parsley and chives and toss to combine. 

Purple Chips and Dip

On any given day, I can ask Poppy what she would like for supper and be quite certain of the response - fish and chips. Luckily, she is flexible in its preparation and doesn’t flinch when it doesn’t arrive battered and dripping excess fryer oil. Don’t get me wrong, she certainly doesn’t mind that variety but she will happily eat a piece of oven baked or steamed fish with a sliced potato baked in the oven and a side of veggies. And by veggies, I don’t mean white coleslaw.

I decided to get a little crazy with the oven chips the other day. We drove through the Annapolis Valley and stopped at our favourite farm market where they happened to still have some blue potatoes hanging around. I was excited by this, and by our horde of Honeycrisp apples which had come through the long winter very nicely, but that is another post. My husband and two half asleep girls were not nearly as jubilant and moped back to the car, the market was all out of the favourite cookies, as I skipped to load our bounty into the trunk.

On Saturday, a couple of days later, I was marinating some flank steak for the barbecue, with the assistance of my almost four year old kitchen helper, when she conspiratorially whispered to me, ‘I know Mommy, let’s have fish and chips for supper and Daddy and Uncle Tosh can eat the meat.’ 

‘Barbecued fish and chips?,’ I asked.

‘Yep, that would be so good,’ she replied.

I had forgotten about the blue potato bonanza and, when I went in search of something to make ‘chips’ from, was excited about their chipping potential. I thought the blue spuds may have been a bit too waxy and was worried they might not crisp up very nicely. But, after a bit longer than I expected in the oven, the chips were pretty tasty, crisp on the outside and soft on the inside. And, as Poppy will tell you, anything that is purple must be good.

I was inspired by some chipotle aioli that I had received in a yummy little care package from Toronto but it has a little too much kick for Poppy so I started making an aioli to eat with the purple chips, flank steak and salmon. I found some fresh coriander/cilantro in our veg box and thought that purple goes nicely with green, so coriander aioli it would be.

As supper was being put on the table, my starving child scrambled up onto her chair to be heard exclaiming, ‘Purple chips and dip for supper!’ and giggling like a, well, like a four year old.

‘Purple’ Chips

6 medium blue potatoes 

1/4 cup olive oil

Maldon sea salt

Preheat oven to 475º.

Peel and slice the potatoes into ‘chips’.

Toss with olive oil and spread out on two baking sheets covered with parchment.

Bake, turning a few times, until the spuds are crispy and golden purple, about 30 minutes. 

I don’t know if it was the blue potatoes, but it did seem to take ages for these to crisp up.

Sprinkle with sea salt and serve with aioli.

Coriander/Cilantro Aioli 

1 egg yolk

2 cloves garlic minced (I used the rasp for this)

1 tablespoon lemon juice

Fresh ground black pepper

Salt to taste

1 cup oil (I used 1/2 extra virgin olive and 1/2 grapeseed. You need to use some olive oil but I wouldn’t use all olive oil because it can get almost bitter) 

1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander/cilantro

Whisk egg yolk, minced garlic, lemon juice, pepper and salt together,

Gradually and very slowly whisk in the oil. Make sure you have it in something you can easily pour from.

Check seasoning and add a little extra lemon juice or a few drops of white wine vinegar if you don’t find it tangy enough. Do this slowly and gradually because you don’t want the aioli to split.

Serve with purple chips (or anything else that you fancy).

Me? Stubborn?

There are a few food words which bring hoots and howls at our house. Most houses have them - hoots of approval at the uttering of words like dessert and candy and howls of despair for things like brussel sprouts and liver. Some of ours are expected - marshmallows and chocolate cake for instance. But sometimes I am completely unprepared for the odd howl of distaste. 

Sometimes, I alter the plan to make the offending food item more desirable. Sometimes, I stand very firm and declare that the choice is to eat it or to forfeit the after supper treat. Rarely, if ever, do I remove it from the menu.  Not even when it is Stephen doing the howling. In fact, I just dig my heels in a little further and determine to make him like whatever it is.

And so it was the other day when I returned home with a carton of sauerkraut. He looked at me like I had three heads and he tried to refrain from making gagging noises, his kind and loving version of culinary heckling, while Poppy was in the room. This did nothing but strengthen my resolve.

So, I set about cooking the offending sauerkraut. I tossed it in a pot with some carrots, some turnip and stock. I left the sausages out because there is something about sausages cooking in a pot of liquid that, ironically enough, makes me howl with disgust. As the cook, I get to do that though. I popped the pot of sauerkraut and veg in the oven and left it there for a couple of hours. I made some really good and buttery mashed potatoes and grilled some Lunenburg sausage for my carnivorous husband. 

Then, I sat down at the table and awaited the verdict. Still, he was not loving the sauerkraut and, I suspect, had Poppy not been there, he would not have eaten it and the gagging noises would have been our supper soundtrack. 

Consequently, we had leftovers. I still wasn’t ready to give in but I waited a couple of days to launch my second attack. The container of sauerkraut sat in the fridge and he knew it was going to reappear at some point, he just wasn’t sure when. I was still determined to make him want seconds if not thirds. I also knew that I had a couple of other weapons up my sleeve in the form of half a dozen fresh eggs and some double smoked bacon.

Sauerkraut Bubble and Squeak with Double Smoked Bacon and Fried Egg

2 cups leftover cooked sauerkraut (and any other cooked veg you need to use up)

3 cups leftover buttery mashed potatoes

Olive oil 

12 slices double smoked bacon

4 eggs

Salt and pepper to taste

Mix the sauerkraut and potatoes. Form into eight cakes. Heat a frying pan, add a tablespoon or so of olive oil and fry, on low to medium heat, the cakes until golden on each side.

Cook the bacon using your preferred method. I like to do it on a baking sheet in the oven at about 400ºF.

Fry the eggs the way you like them, sunny side up lets the yolk at as sauce to whole thing.

Serve a couple of bubble and squeak cakes with 2 or 3 slices of crispy bacon and an egg on top.

The verdict?

Sometimes it is better to suffer through something the first time, just for the leftovers.