Chocolate Paté - Happy Birthday Pops!

My dad’s birthday is today. He is turning 60. 60 years young, he would say. My dad has taught me some pretty valuable lessons in the past few years.

He has taught me the value of being unconditional with those you love. I missed that for a long while. Along with that came learning the value of being loved unconditionally. He has taught me that sometimes it is okay to give in and to admit that you can’t do it all. He has taught me that it is okay to receive and that sometimes just being thankful is enough. He taught me that we don’t always have to agree to have a relationship. He has taught me that even when we haven’t seen each other or spoken in an age, that there is always someone who will listen and enjoy or talk and disagree or just say, ‘thanks for sharing that.’ He has taught me that I am stronger than I think I am.

He has taught my daughters a few things too. They have learned that he is a little crazy sometimes but that he loves them, even when they don’t want a bar of him and that that in itself is okay. He has taught Poppy how to drive, the windshield wiper controls and horn being an integral part of those lessons. His alter-ego, Stewart Martha, has taught them how clean a floor should be to eat off of. Most importantly so far, for them, he has taught them that chocolate is a food group on its own and that, when part of a meal, one should always eat it first so as not to spoil it by the lingering flavours of anything else or, heaven forbid, by not having enough room at the end of a meal. 

With that in mind, the girls and I set out to make what is potentially my dad’s favourite food, chocolate paté. I have made it for him before, in various guises. I once put some dried sour cherries in it which were eaten, but to his mind were definitely not proper, interfering with what was meant to be a chocolate experience. The nuts were greeted in much the same way. White chocolate would be unthinkable and milk chocolate is just about tolerable. 

Finding the recipe we would use became a challenge but I eventually happened upon a Bernard Callebaut recipe which, with a few tweaks was going to be just fine. I omitted the white chocolate layer. I kept the milk chocolate layer because the dark chocolate I was using needed a sweet lift for this to really be perfect, and so that my children would eat it. I normally make a baked, in a water bath, chocolate paté which uses eggs but it also uses 1 1/2 pounds of chocolate and makes a ton. It was not an eating challenge I felt the girls and I could, or should, take on. A big plus was the simplicity of this recipe. Sometimes you just can’t be worrying about temperatures and timing and with this, in three hours you have something amazing.

What came out was a little lighter than a usual paté but no less chocolatey for it. The Just Us chocolate I used was perfect. The dark gave a smoky depth and the milk chocolate had a caramel note that was the perfect foil for the barely sweet dark. I macerated some raspberries, which means I added some sugar and let them sit for a bit, and served it with that and some white chocolate sauce. You could do that or purée the berries and pass them through a sieve to remove the seeds for a finer presentation. With white chocolate or not is up to you as well. Some like it served with a dollop of whipped cream. In Cornwall, it would have a blob of the ubiquitous clotted cream. Really, I think, anything goes.

The only note on the method I would like to add is that of you stop to take photos, distribute evenly sized spoon licks to onlookers or otherwise faff about during the folding in of the cream, you too will likely end up with some tiny little chips of chocolate in your paté. They taste great but don’t help in the achieving of a silky smooth texture.

With all that, Happy Birthday Dad/Papa! 

Chocolate Paté (adapted from Bernard Callebaut)

200 grams good quality milk chocolate chopped

200 grams good quality dark chocolate chopped (try for at least 70%)

3/4 cup unsalted butter 

2 cups (500 ml) heavy (whipping) cream

Line a 22 x 11 cm loaf pan with cling film.

Melt each of the chocolates separately in a double boiler. When melted add 1/4 + 1/8 cup butter (1/2 of what the recipe calls for) in each, stir until butter is melted. Remove from double boiler and heat and let cool to room temperature.

When chocolate mixtures are cooled, whip cream to soft peaks. Divide evenly between the two chocolates and gently fold the cream into each chocolate.

Spoon the milk chocolate mixture into the pan, tap gently to, hopefully, get rid of any big bubbles and smooth top. The do the same with the dark chocolate layer.

Cover it with cling film and refrigerate for at least two hours.

Carefully unmold by gently tugging on the cling film lining the tin and invert it onto a plate.

With a hot knife (put the knife in a container of hot water for a few seconds), slice the paté.

Put slices on a plate and serve with some macerated raspberries or raspberry coulis and/or some white chocolate sauce.

THE. BEST. CHOCOLATE. CHIP. COOKIES. - Really,They are That Good

I have one sentence for you. It is really quite simple. No fuss, no muss, just one little sentence that may just change your life, or at least your baking. These are the best chocolate chip cookies ever. Yes, I said EVER.

The recipe hails from a New York Times article from 2008. Before you get all excited thinking I have the time to read the New York Times and how you must have my time management tips and secrets, I don’t. I was just lucky enough to stumble upon Orangette, who wasn’t reading the New York Times either, but has a news-reading friend who told her she needed to read this article.

If you care, at all, about cookies or baking or recipe development or Dorie Greenspan, who, along with David Lebovitz (I know I’m name dropping but I love them), is teaching me how to make perfect macarons, then you should read the original article by David Leite. If you care about them being really beautiful, and arranging the chocolate pieces, Jacques Torres uses made-especially-for-him fêves, chocolate disks that create layers of chocolate through the cookie, so that they are just so, you can do that to. All I know is that Torres clearly does not have twenty fingers reaching up from between him and the countertop trying to pinch his cookies while he arranges his fêves. I eliminated this challenge by using really good quality chocolate chips which tasted just fine.

Now, not all, but lots, maybe even most good things come with a caveat. Some make it a deal breaker and, to be honest, it almost was for me. I wasn’t sure we, pretty much meaning me, could cope with a bowl of cookie dough sitting in our fridge. Yes, that’s right, sitting in our fridge for thirty-six, that’s 3-6, hours. It may seem like an age, especially when you are waiting for cookies, but you can just push it to the back and come back a day and a half later. 

Do it. Don’t let the time defeat you. You will love them. They are delicious. They are crispy. They are chewy. They are salty sweet perfection.

As I mentioned, I used chocolate chips instead of disks. Try and use the best quality you can find or afford. I used fine sea salt instead of coarse salt in the dough, I couldn’t see that this would make a difference. I used Maldon sea salt for the tops. The original recipe is given in cups and in ounces. I used cups because I don’t have a scale here in San Diego. My cookies were a little smaller than the recipe wants.

The. Best. Chocolate. Chip. Cookies. adapted from Jacques Torres, David Leite, Orangette (makes about 28 4-inch cookies)

2 cups minus 2 tablespoons cake flour

1 2/3 cups bread flour

1 1/4 teaspoons baking soda

1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1 1/2 teaspoons fine sea salt

1 1/4 cups unsalted butter

1 1/4 cups light brown sugar

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar

2 large eggs

2 teaspoons natural vanilla extract

3 1/4 cups good quality chocolate chips

Maldon sea salt

Sift flour, baking soda, baking powder and salt together.

Cream butter and sugars together for about five minutes, or until very light.

Add eggs, one at a time and mix well after each egg. Beat in the vanilla.

Add the dry ingredients and mix until just combined. 

Mix the chocolate in. 

Press cling film against the dough and refrigerate for 36 hours, or up to 72 hours.

When you are ready to bake, preheat oven to 350º.

Scoop large golf balls of dough onto the baking sheet a couple of inches apart.

Sprinkle each with sea salt and bake until browned but still soft. It took about 16 minutes for me, you will want to keep checking.

Cool on baking sheet for ten minutes, then transfer to a cooling rack.

Repeat until you have baked all your dough. Eat, you may want to use a napkin.

Good Bad Cookies

There are times when life gets in the way of pretty much anything else. Visitors, and lots of fun, and travel, and lots of fun, and trying to clean your house up into the no-really-this-is-how-we-live-our-children-don’t-make-mess state required for potential buyers to be able to consider living there gets in the way of just cooking dinner, much less writing about it. Now that the house is tidy and we seem to have tracked down all the odors emanating from behind furniture and all the,’ Oops, I appear to be stuck,’ patches have been scraped off the floor and we have returned from what seemed like a cross country road trip which was, in reality, just a few hundred miles up the coast, and our fridge is empty of leftovers, I am back in cooking mode. At least until my new, but not particularly successful, knitting hobby takes over.

Shortly after New Year and in the midst of my determination to not resolve to do anything, I realized that I had to do something with the jar of a certain chocolate-hazelnut spread that someone, silly person, had put in Stephen’s Christmas stocking. Left on its own, it was going to meet no better end than a teaspoon straight into someone’s waiting, and knowing better, gob. At least if I baked it up into something else, it would disperse the no-goodness and it could be more easily shared around.

I made the cookies but I couldn’t post them, too many resolutions would be swearing them off. Something this bad but good needed an audience. So, I waited and, well, I have waited long enough. It is February people (at least it feels that way at home, I am told), and you all need something to do on your snow days (I miss snow days, I really, really do). Plus, you will deserve them after all that shoveling (I miss shoveling, really I do). Plus, if I had some snow to shovel, I would then deserve to eat more of them.

Peanut Butter and Chocolate Hazelnut Spread Cookies

1 1/4 cup crunchy peanut butter

1 cup brown sugar

1 large egg

1 teaspoon vanilla

3/4 cup flour

1 teaspoon baking soda

1/4 teaspoon salt

3/4 cup chocolate chips

1/2 cup chocolate hazelnut spread

Preheat oven to 375ºF.

Beat peanut butter, brown sugar, egg and vanilla together. 

Mix flour, baking soda and salt in another bowl. Mix in to wet ingredients.

When wet and dry are fully mixed, stir in the chocolate chips and chocolate hazelnut spread.

Roll into balls and place on baking sheet lined with parchment. Flatten with a floured fork. 

Bake for about 10 minutes. Careful, these are pretty easy to overbake.

Cool.

Makes about 24.

Will the Real Edible Kind Please Stand Up?

When I was child, I once ate a horse chestnut. I remember thinking that people sang about, 'chestnuts roasting over an open fire.' I figured that they should probably taste fine freshly fallen off the tree as well. Little did I know that Aesculus hippocastanum is not to be confused with Castanea, also known as The Edible Kind. The bitter, drying taste I faced left me wondering what all the Christmas carol fuss was about. It wasn't until I was about twenty years old that I finally braved up to taste the 'real' thing. But, this isn't about The Edible Kind.

A week or so ago, I replied to a tweet describing the cupcake menu for the day at Nomélie Cupcakes. I asked what the heck a 'buckeye' was. Her reply was: @nsbonnielass a choc cupcake w/pb cream cheese filling dipped in ganache topped w/swirl of pb frosting http://tinyurl.com/2g4xqom. I followed the link and realized, 'they're conkers.' But, candy conkers.

So, I read a little about it, and thought of my husband and his love of peanut butter. I thought of his even greater love for chocolate coated peanut butter. I thought of his love for conkers. Really, still, in his fifth decade, the search for the perfect conker can easily double the length of an autumn hike. And, I made some peanut butter conkers because, as patiently as I wait, the real ones still haven't started to fall off the trees here and I fancied a bowl of conkers or horse chestnuts or buckeyes, whatever you choose to call them, for the centre of our table. 

I read some of the recipes following the link above and most seemed a little bit too full of stuff I don't consider to be food like wax. And, some things that I had never heard of like honey margarine. And, things that seemed redundant like peanut butter cups. One of the recipes seemed fairly reasonable save for the fact that, made in the quantities prescribed, I would have wound up with way too many of the little tasties. 

I went out got some of the bad, but oh-so-good, sort of creamy peanut butter for these. I figured with a recipe like this, there is no point trying to be virtuous. The original recipe called for margarine and I used butter. I did keep the shortening in the chocolate coating only because we had some shortening left over from a bird seed project we have been working on and, as I said above, with a recipe like this, there is no point trying to be virtuous.

Conkers adapted from a recipe tested by Carla Hall who is possibly a member of the Mid-Ohio Boogie Club (makes 30)

400 grams confectioner's sugar

1 1/2 cups creamy peanut butter

1/2 cup softened butter

1 teaspoon vanilla

6 ounces chocolate chips

2 tablespoons shortening

Mix sugar, peanut butter, butter and vanilla together. Chill for an hour.

Form into 30 conker/horse chestnut/buckeye shaped balls and place on a tray or plate. Chill for an hour.

Melt chocolate and shortening in a heavy bottomed saucepan over low heat or in a double boiler. Stir until all chocolate is melted. Cool until it is about body temperature.

Using a toothpick, dip each conker in the chocolate and place on lined tray or plate. When all are dipped smooth the toothpick holes closed with a wet fingertip. Chill until firm.

Keep in refrigerator or freezer until you are ready to eat them.

Breaking my Rules

My nephew turns seven on Monday. His passions are origami and Star Wars. I wanted to make him a cake but I didn’t want to make this. I don’t have the skills, space, staff or patience to make this. And, although this is pretty sweet, I was sure it wasn’t going to pass the taste test.

So, I broke one of my, until this point, strictest rules. I put inedible things on and around the cake. 113 of them to be exact. Paper cranes. And, I am glad I did. This was definitely the most fun I have had making a cake. 

Disclaimer: Because I wasn’t planning on posting this, I just have to because I loved it so much, the following are guidelines only. I didn’t make any notes.

Chocolate Cake with Vanilla Bean Buttercream and Raspberry Jam

The cake is my Go-To cake. I made a triple recipe (you will either need a very large mixer and a very large mixing bowl or make two 1-1/2 batches) and wound up with a 10-inch, an 8-inch and a 6-inch cake, all about 3 inches high. The cooking time needs to be increased a lot for the 10 and the 8 and just a little for the 6. It took about 70 minutes for the larger two and about 40 for the smaller one.

The icing ratio is 1 cup unsalted butter to 3-1/2 cups icing sugar plus 1/2 tablespoon vanilla bean paste (or the seeds of 1/2 a vanilla bean) and 1 tablespoon milk. I used 4 cups of butter and 14 cups of icing sugar but I was making a pretty big cake. An 8-inch, two layer cake would probably be fine with a 1 or 2 cup batch.

I trimmed the top of the cakes to make sure they were flat and then I sliced each of them into three layers and spread a layer of good quality raspberry jam and buttercream between each. I then crumb-coated the cake. 

Crumb coating is covering the cake with a thin layer of icing to keep the crumbs from getting into the ‘good’ layer.

I left the cakes in the fridge overnight at this point and iced them in the morning before attaching the paper cranes with royal icing.

Don't tell my daughters, but sometimes good things happen when you break the rules. And, it's fun too.

Healthy??? Chocolate Chip Cookies

Okay, so a recipe for a healthy chocolate chip cookie isn’t something I would usually leap at with great enthusiasm. I imagine heavy, doorstopper like pucks with the texture of slightly moistened saw dust and tasting pretty much like not sweet enough cardboard.

I know that sugar alternatives have come a long way since back in the day when my mother read Sugar Blues and virtually banned the stuff from a good part of our childhood but those memories still sting. And, I was preparing for this trip to the Caribbean and the thought of exposing more flesh than what is on show wearing jeans and a rain coat was weighing heavily when I came across this one. 

Like the veggie burgers, it comes from The Golden Door Cooks at Home by Dean Rucker and Marah Stets.

I don’t usually find a lot of inspiration in vegan baking. I believe in butter. That isn’t to say that I think vegans are in any way misguided. On the contrary, I admire them and believe it is an amazing thing to commit to. But, there are times when animal products seem to belong in cooking and, more often than not, baking is one of them. On the other hand, I also think it is important to get outside of one’s sweet and buttery comfort zone every now and then.

By now, I probably don’t need to tell you that I was a little skeptical but it had been about ten days since my last sweet and I was pretty sure that these would be a justifiable caloric splurge. I had even stayed away from the dark chocolate cupcakes with cream cheese frosting, also known in our house as God’s gift to cake, that I had made for my sister’s birthday. More admirably, I had managed to stay away from the leftover frosting in the fridge.

While we were making these, I read the recipe to Poppy and was explaining what we had to do. I stopped in the midst of collecting ingredients to rescue Tilly, who was tangled up in some chair legs and, because I often have the attention span of a gnat these days, I was distracted. A few minuted later, I was reminded of the job underway by Poppy saying, 'Hurry up, we have to mill some oats now.' I decided we would be making these again just to mill oats in the food processor.

These cookies were good. There was no sawdustiness. The texture was a little crispy and a little chewy which isn’t a bad thing in a cookie. They were nicely sweet.  I will admit to adding 3 times the amount of chocolate chips called for because I don’t think you can call cookies chocolate chip cookies if you have to search for the chocolate chips. Does that make them less healthy? Yeah, it probably does. 

The cookies didn’t make it to Poppy’s preschool, the intended destination, because the recipe only made eighteen in the end. Maybe we made them too big but they weren’t huge. Maybe, because the recipe comes from a health spa, they are supposed to be really small. But, by the time we had tasted a couple to be sure they were good, there weren’t enough to go around so we had to eat them ourselves, except for the ones that went to some friends’ house for dinner.

I probably ate four of them and I enjoyed them completely but, with each one, I couldn’t help thinking that, with a little leftover cream cheese frosting, they would make pretty amazing whoopie pies. I thought about it and I thought about it some more and then I had another little think about it but I didn’t do it. I swear.

I am going to make these again sometime, when I don’t have leftover cream cheesy distractions around to cloud my judgement because they were good and if stepping outside the buttery baking box turned out this well all the time, it might be a lot easier to feel good in my bathing suit.

The only change I made, other than the quantity of chocolate chips, was to use grapeseed oil instead of vegetable oil spray. Just use a piece of paper towel to spread a thin film of oil over the parchment.

Healthy Chocolate Chip Cookies from The Golden Door Cooks at Home by Dean Rucker and Marah Stets

Grapeseed oil

1/2 cup old fashioned rolled oats

1 cup whole wheat flour

1 cup chocolate chips

1 tablespoon ground flaxseed

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/4 teaspoon salt

3/4 cup maple syrup

1/2 cup applesauce

3 tablespoons grapeseed oil

1 teaspoon vanilla

1/2 teaspoon lemon juice

Preheat oven to 350º. Line two baking sheets with parchment and, using a piece of paper towel, cover the parchment with a very thin film of grapeseed oil.

In a food processor, pulse the oats to a fine meal. It should take about ten minutes. Transfer the oats to a large mixing bowl and add the rest of the dry ingredients.

Whisk together the wet ingredients and add to the dry. Use a spatula to fold them together until just incorporated.

The batter will be the consistency of muffin batter.

Spoon rounded tablespoonfuls onto the baking sheet, 11/2 “ apart. Use the back of a wet spoon to flatten each cookie out a bit.

Bake one sheet at a time for about 20 minutes, until light golden brown.

Transfer to cooling rack.

These won’t keep for too long but it didn’t seem to be a problem here.

My 'Go To' Cake

After my last post about a cake, I thought I had better redeem myself and try to prove that I can do good cake even better than I can do not so good cake. I have lots of cake recipes - some I have made once or twice, some sit clipped and waiting in the disaster of clippings, some have been admired in the pages of cookbooks and then there are those that just get made over and over and over. These are ‘go to’ cakes. The cake you can count on not being a mess. The cake you could almost make in your sleep. The cake that feels good.

My ‘go to’ cake is our standard birthday cake. It gets finished differently depending on recipient, where it is being made, where it is being served and to how many. Is it just us or is it for eighty hungry boat yard employees? Is the birthday boy or girl six or sixty? Are we in Canada in the middle of winter or on the beach in the Caribbean or stern to in Portofino? In other words, do I need to worry about it melting or does it need to look unbelievably fabulous? Or, do I need something a little bit decadent but still homey and something an almost four year old can help with(read: spread all over her face while having ‘just a little taste.’) Something to welcome home a recently turned forty daddy after two long and horrid months in the Caribbean.

The ‘go to’ recipe is for a chocolate cake. It originally came from the back of a cocoa container - I can’t remember which one. Over time it has been copied and recopied from notebook to notebook. 

For this occasion, I decided I would split the layers and fill them with thick caramel sauce. I discovered this while working at a restaurant called Five Doors North in Toronto. It was loud and fun and very Italian and everything was simply made and simply deliciously perfect.

After I filled the layers, I frosted it with a whipped dark chocolate ganache. This is like the filling of a truffle and truly decadent and truly not for someone who is not a fan of chocolate. After the ganache, I would top it with a small mountain of dark chocolate shards. I contemplated chocolate curls but, I had an almost four year old helper and figured I wouldn’t be nearly quick or tidy enough with my help for curls. Plus, it isn’t as heartbreaking to see the shards being eaten as quickly as you make them as it is with the curls.

Chocolate Caramel Cake with Dark Chocolate Ganache

Cake (I almost can’t believe I am giving this recipe away)

3/4 cup butter, softened

1 2/3 cups granulated sugar

3 eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

2 cups all purpose flour (I have used cake flour, which gives a slightly lighter cake, use it if you have it, don’t worry if you don’t, the cake will be fine)

2/3 cup cocoa (I usually use some really lovely rich fairtrade stuff, use the one you like the flavour of)

1 1/4 teaspoons baking soda

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon baking powder

1 1/3 cups water

Preheat the oven to 350º. Butter and flour two 9-inch baking pans or a 13x9x2-inch baking pan or 24 cupcake tins (which you could also line). I like to put a circle of parchment on the bottom of the pans, or a square depending on what you are using.

Beat butter, sugar, eggs and vanilla on high for 3 minutes. This should look light and creamy. Sift flour, cocoa, baking soda, salt and baking powder together. Add this in four additions to the creamed butter mixture, alternating with the water. Begin and end with the dry ingredients. 

Pour into pans and bake 30-35 minutes, less for cupcakes. As usual, a tester inserted in the centre should come out clean.

Allow to cool. After a few minutes, remove the cakes from the pans onto a wire rack and allow to cool completely.

Caramel sauce

2 cups granulated sugar

1/4 cup water

1 cup cream

Put sugar and water in medium sized, heavy bottomed saucepan over medium heat.  DO NOT STIR the sugar.  Gently swirl the pan until the sugar dissolves. Use a pastry brush with some water to ‘wipe’ any sugar crystals off the sides of the pan. After the sugar starts to boil it will take about ten minutes to caramelize, but don’t go anywhere.  Keep an eye on it. And, be really careful, boiling sugar is just about one of the hottest things you can cook with and it takes a long time to cool once it hits the skin. 

Now, if you are as much of a nerd as I am, and you care to listen, you can sort of hear the sugar start to caramelize. Of course, I can’t hear it anymore because I have a seven month old baby and an almost four year old to drown out any audible cooking clues now. Once it starts to caramelize, it will happen quickly and can go from being perfectly toastily amber to burnt and bitter in a few seconds. Be ready with your cream and a whisk. When it reaches that perfect shade of amber, add the cream, pouring away from you. It will roll and boil, so don’t get too close right away, but give it a little whisk once it starts to calm down. 

Allow this to cool.

Assembly (this can be done a day or two in advance and wrapped in cling film and kept in the fridge)

Spilt the two layers of the cake so you have four layers. Level off the tops if they have gotten too hilly in the middle.

Pour about 1/5 of the caramel sauce onto the first layer and quickly spread it around.  It will soak into the cake. Continue this with two more layers, don’t put any caramel sauce on the top layer.

Wrap it in cling film, or, if you are finishing the cake the same day, make the ganache.

Whipped Dark Chocolate Ganache

18 ounces good quality dark chocolate chopped

2 cups whipping cream

Gently heat cream until almost boiling. Remove from heat and whisk in chocolate. Continue to stir until the chocolate is melted. At this point, if you don’t want to whip the ganache, let it cool a bit and then pour it over the cake, spreading it on the sides.

Or to whip, pour into the bowl of the mixer and beat on medium high speed until the ganache is cooled and has a mousse-like stiffness.

Spread over the sides and top of the caramel filled cake.

Dark Chocolate Shards

4 ounces of good quality dark chocolate chopped.

Melt the chocolate in a bowl over a pan of simmering water. Take care not to let any steam or water from the pan to get into the chocolate. 

When the chocolate is melted pour it onto a sheet of waxed paper. Spread the melted chocolate with a spatula into a thin layer. Cover with another sheet of waxed paper. Roll and refrigerate for at least four hours.

Remove the roll from the fridge and gently unroll it. Remove the top sheet of waxed paper and gently free the shards with a spatula. Use tongs or the spatula to put the shards on top of the cake. Touching the chocolate with your hands will melt it.  

The cake should be served as soon as possible, depending on how hot it is. If there is any left, you can refrigerate it but the ganache will harden a bit.

Birthday goodness - every time.